Sevilla!

Orange and lemon.

Oh, the girl
unhappy in love!

Lemon and Orange.

Alas for the girl,
the pale girl!

Lemon.

(How the sun was glinting.)

Orange.

(Off the pebbles
in the water.) from Songs, Fedrico García Lorca

What to say about Sevilla? An absolutely beautiful city - orange trees everywhere, the gorgeous Gothic cathedral, the magical Alcázar (Royal Palace), flamenco, and more. The two days we spent here were truly wonderful. Sevilla is a city I could return to and live in for some time!

Orange trees are everywhere in Sevilla. Their evergreen shade cools this southern city in the summer and their blossoms must smell delightful in the spring, but in the winter they provide orange and green beauty for the eyes. Not the tongue, as their oranges are very bitter and are used for perfume, cat food, etc. and not for eating (although Maddy and Max ate a couple!).

Here we are enjoying some delicious tapas in Barrio Santa Cruz along with orange juice (Maddy), orange soda (Max, of course), and orange wine. Mmmmmmmm...

The Cathedral and Giralda bell tower - the third largest church in Europe and the largest Gothic cathedral in the world. Built in the 15th and 16th centuries, it is a marvel to behold. We climbed to the bell area of the tower and enjoyed marvelous views of Sevilla from 330 feet up. The bells chime every 15 minutes - that was a loud surprise from right underneath them!




Sevilla street at night.












La Giralda at night.

















A beautiful woman in a beautiful place - the Alcázar gardens. The Alcázar palace and gardens are the most breathtaking we have seen in Spain. The Moorish design was influenced by the Alhambra in Grenada (which we didn't get to see on this trip). Jen and I both are quite taken with the Moorish tilework, the gardens, the stones, etc. It is just amazing. Ahhh...to be royals!




The gardens.













We saw an amazing flamenco show at Casa de la Memoria in Sevilla. It is a beautiful patio setting; very magical! The performers were incredible. Casa de la Memoria is known for its more traditional flamenco shows, not as touristy as many of the tablaos (bars that have flamenco shows). It was an amazing show.

We crossed the Guadalquivir River to Triana, the historic Gypsy district of Sevilla.














Flamencos performing on the street.









From Sevilla, we head to Córdoba on the way home to Madrid.

Feliz Navidad!

Feliz Navidad from Madrid! Here we are on Puerta de Sol on Christmas Day.

We had a quiet but wonderful Christmas. It was strange to be just the four of us away from a big family gathering, and in a foreign place, but we enjoyed it very much.

Luckily, Santa found our little apartment in Madrid, far away from Ashland, and was able to come in the balcony door we left open for him! Maddy and Max were delighted to see he found us! We cooked dinner and had a wonderful day together. In Spain, Christmas Eve is the traditional big family gathering, and they usually have lunch together on Christmas Day. The children exchange some gifts but the main gift giving holiday isn't until January 6th, Dia de los tres reyes, or Day of the Three Kings. The three kings come through the city giving candy and gifts to the children signifying when the three wise men came to give gifts to the baby Jesus. We maintained our traditional Christmas Day gift-giving, much to Maddy's and Max's relief!

We joined some new friends for coffee in the afternoon which was a welcome bit of socializing. Andy from Ashland had just returned to his wife and two children in Madrid and invited us over to a family friend's house. It was a wonderful afternoon. Their apartment was near the Plaza de Castilla where the famous "Puerta de Europa" buildings are. They were about to fall over so Max helped hold them up.

The day after Christmas we are heading to Sevilla for two days, and then Córdoba for a day.

Barcelona!

We visited Barcelona from 12/17-12/20. What a truly unique city! The Catalan culture and language, the architecture by Gaudí, Picasso and Miró museums, Las Ramblas, La Boqueria, so much to see and experience!

Gaudí's style is so unbelievable to behold. Such color, shape, and breath. His buildings are truly like no others on earth. His Sagrada Familia (Holy Family) church is remarkable - he worked on it from 1883 until his death in 1926 and it is still unfinished. It is not expected to be done for another 50 years at least. Parts of it seem like they are melting away in the rain, others are amazing shapes bordering on Gothic. The large, towering spires that rise above all in Barcelona will not even be the tallest ones when it is completed. We went up in one and experienced breathtaking views of the city.

The back side - the only side Gaudí saw completed in his lifetime.

The front of the church. We went up in the two spires on the right side. A little freaky!
















Some views from up top:














Spires on the other side.

















The back side from up top.

















We also visited Gaudí's Parc Güell - made famous in many films and postcards. The winding benches, mozaics, and labyrinthian paths were a treat for the senses. Another magical spot!










Smile!













Unbelievable!

















We did quite a bit of rambling up and down Las Ramblas (the streams), a mile-long boulevard leading from Plaça de Catalunya, a huge plaza dividing the Barri Gótic (Gothic Quarter) from the new city, to the Mediterranean Sea. As James Michener says of the Gothic Quarter, "it is not often that one finds in the heart of a modern city an ancient one existing as a kind of soul imprisoned in stone yet mysteriously vital..." Las Ramblas is full of life and energy, but I would love to have seen it 40 years ago. It was renown for its shops at one point, but now many of them have become fast food and tourist shops. It still has wonderful street performers - like these fairies with Maddy and Max - a bird market, and the most amazing food market I have seen anywhere on earth (including India, which up until now was my favorite) - La Boquería.

Seemingly miles of fresh fruit, produce, candy, meat, fresh fish, prepared food, and more. If this market were near my house in Ashland, I would never go anywhere else! We ate here daily and marveled at its beauty. OK, we're food crazy, but I think anyone would love it. Even Maddy and Max thought the produce was beautiful.

But nothing compared to the candy stand for them!

They each got a huge bag of hand-picked candy that lasted them about 5 days. Don't tell the dentist!

We took a million pictures of this delicious market. I'll try and limit it to a few below:









Lovely fruit and vegetables. The fresh squeezed fruit juices (so many choices!) were delicious.









Dried fruit and nuts, spices, mushrooms, chocolates, olives, anything you could want!









I didn't try these sandwiches, but was tempted by the label - "sandwich orgasmic"! There were also "burrito orgasmic, pizza orgasmic, etc."







Café con leche and tortilla for breakfast - so delicious. Spanish tortilla is not at all like tortillas from Mexico. The traditional Spanish tortilla is like a potato omelet. We also had one made with peppers and zucchini that was incredible - Max even loved it! He said, "I don't care if there is zucchini in it - I love it!"



We also visited the Picasso and Miró museums - two of my favoite artists. The Picasso museum was a fascinating exhibition of his development, from 12-year old prodigy to the end of his life. Most interesting were his "copies", more interpretations, of Velasquez's "Las Meninas". Compare this work with Velasquez's "Las Meninas" in the "Entry 3 from Madrid" blog. Visit the Museo Picasso here.


The Miró museum was just a pure treat for the eyes - probably my favorite museum of all I've seen here so far, although that is hard to narrow down. His creations are so playful and improvisational, they are a breath of fresh air to me. Check out the Fundació Joan Miró here. There were also several works by Alexander Calder, one of my other favorite artists, including his Mercury Fountain which was captivating.

The Miró museum is located on Montjuïc (Mount of the Jews), a former Jewish burial ground. Also there were beautiful gardens, a palace, and the Olympic Stadium from the 1992 Summer Olympics.

All in all, it was a beautiful four days in Barcelona, but we are all glad to be "home" in Madrid!

Adios!

Fútbol Club Real Madrid!

GOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOAL!!!!!!

We got to hear that twice last Sunday night as Real Madrid ("Royal" Madrid Football Club) beat Osasuna from Pamplona 2-0. It was great fun - really something to experience the energy of a top-class soccer club in its home stadium!

The Estadio Santiago Bernabéu is huge - it holds 80,400 fans and it was pretty full that night. The match started at 9 PM and ended around 11:00. The low that night was forecast to get down to around 21 degrees Fahrenheit so we bundled up (as you can see). It was pretty funny - we each had on something like long underwear under sweatpants under jeans, etc. When we got there there were huge space heaters up in the stands so we removed jackets, hats, etc. Oh well, at the least the walk home was warm! The metro ride after the match was like a huge cattle call...it was pretty unbelievable. But the Spanish people are very orderly for the most part.

When Real Madrid scored the sound was deafening. Many of the fans bring these incredibly loud horns they blow throughout the match. It was so incredibly loud I can't even describe it.

Next stop - Barcelona!

Entry 5 from Madrid

Hola!

Well, since the last post we have been very busy! We have visited the zoo/aquarium in Madrid, and I have been hanging out with my new friend, Sergio Martinez, a fantastic flamenco percussionist. We also took a day trip to Toledo on Friday, went to the Reina Sofia modern art museum on Saturday, and tonight we go to a Real Madrid Fútbol Club match! Whew! Tomorrow we fly to Barcelona for four days which should be a real adventure. I'll be away from email while we are there and I will post a new entry when we return. Here are a couple of pictures from the zoo - the exhibits there are pretty amazing. Very little bars and cages, most of the animals are only separated from the zoo-goers by moats. It feels very exposed!
The kids enjoyed the dolphin show.

















Nativity scences are everywhere in Madrid,
even in the shark exhibit!














Maddy loved the pandas - a gift to the queen of Spain by China:














This is my friend Sergio Martinez, flamenco percussionist and very cool guy!




























Toledo was fascinating. The history of that city and the change in power from Germanic tribes, to Visigoths, to the Moors, to the Spanish spans over 2,000 years. The city, a walled city on a rock, is surrounded on 3 sides by the Tajo River, so it was well-protected. The tiny, winding streets were wild to walk on. We got lost several times! Also, cars are allowed in the city (supposedly changing next year) so we were constantly pressing ourselves against walls to avoid them...that got a little tiring!



































The cathedral was enormous and beautiful:














































I loved the Reina Sofia - lots of Picasso, Dalí, and Miró. A couple of Calders as well. Picasso's Guernica was incredibly powerful - his reaction to the German's bombing of the Basque town Guernica. Franco gave Hitler permission to test his new air force resulting in the first ever saturation bombing in 1937. Picasso captured the horror as only he could:
Well...time to leave for our Real Madrid match - more after Barcelona! Hasta luego!

Entry 4 from Madrid

Buenos Dias amigos y familia!

Things are going great here - I thought I'd update you all on what we've been up to but also send some pics of our apartment and neighborhood so you can get a sense of where we are. This is it - Calle Costanilla de Santiago, 1-5-D, Madrid, 28013. We are right across the street from Plaza Mayor in the old city...amazing location! It's a pretty quiet street (compared to Calle Mayor!) and everything we need is within a few blocks.

I've had an incredible two days. Juan Carlos, my percussionist friend here, is such an amazing guy. One of the nicest people I have met anywhere. A great thanks to Steve Smith for introducing me to Juan Carlos!!! We have had fun jamming, listening to music, etc. He is loaning me a cajón while I am here and really exposing me to a lot. Juan Carlos turned me on to a cajón builder, actually a luthier, in Barcelona and I am having a custom cajón built while I am here. His name is Germán Ocaña, and you can check out his site here. I am so excited - Juan Carlos has one of his cajones and it is the most amazing instrument I have ever played...truly unique! Juan Carlos took me out CD shopping last night which was great - very nice to have someone recommending some important flamenco CDs to have in my collection!

Monday night I went to a club and heard a flamenco singer, El Torta, who is making a comeback after 15 years. He was really great - powerful, expressive, and passionate. It was a very small club called "La Boca del Lobo" (the jaws of the wolf). Hard to see, but good sound and a nice first flamenco experience. Very pure - only cante y guitarra (singer and guitar).

Sunday we are going to see Real Madrid Club de Fútbol (the top professional soccer team in Spain, and one of the best in the world) play at their home stadium. It is a league match against Osasuna. It is pretty hard to get tickets, but Juan Carlos helped us figure it out and we got some. They were ridiculously expensive...but when else will we have this chance? We watched them play in the Championship league on TV last night against Lazio (Italy) and it was an exciting game.

So, as promised, here are some pics of our apartment and our neighborhood. See you in cyberspace soon!

"Bienvenidos!" says Max.

Maddy at the elevator.

Maddy in the stairway...muy rústico!

Neighborhood streets

Max doing some homework:

Maddy doing homework:

Jen in the living room:

Maddy & Max in their bedroom:

Our tiny kitchen - thank god for it!: